Thursday, July 31, 2025

Kungfu Training in Taiwan - part 1

 

The author with his Taiwanese teacher's sons. Taipei County, circa 2003.

    I started training in kungfu in 1999, when I was a 19 year-old college student. For about 5 years I soaked in as much as I could at the Asian Martial Arts Studio in Ann Arbor, Michigan. It proved to be a great outlet after a few turbulent years of trying to study electrical engineering and balance college studies with my social life. The Asian Martial Arts Studio (AMAS) provided a solid foundation in Hunggar kungfu, Yang style Taiji, Qigong, and even lion dancing.

    My interest in Chinese martial arts led to me signing up for an introduction to Mandarin Chinese course. While I ended up withdrawing from the course, my teacher was influential and recommended that we all study Chinese language abroad. Tao Laoshi (Teacher Tao) as we called her, was Taiwanese and carried an open umbrella on sunny days, which at the time seemed odd to those of us not familiar with life in Asia. Tao Laoshi gave me my Chinese name, Ke Mu-hsia. Ke(柯)as my surname since it sounds like the start of my last name Collardey. And Mu-hsia(慕俠), a reference to the swashbuckling heroes of old Chinese martial arts novels. Tao Laoshi knew my fondness of kungfu.

    The following year I signed up for the same Mandarin Chinese course, albeit under another teacher. This time I figured out how to study efficiently and memorize the characters and pronunciations needed to pass the weekly quizzes. It involved repetition and writing the pinyin and the characters 3 times each for each new vocabulary term.

    That Spring I decided to study abroad in Taiwan during the Summer. I landed at National Taiwan Normal University, studying intermediate Mandarin Chinese for a couple of hot and humid months in Taipei. I stayed at an International student dorm on the outskirts of Taipei and the entire experience had a major impact on the rest of my life. I had to go back to Taiwan. A few months just wasn't enough.

    During my final year of college back in Ann Arbor, I plotted a way to get back to Taiwan, by any means necessary. At the time I hated getting up in front of people and especially speaking in front of others, but I had heard that teaching English in Taiwan was a sure-fire way to land a relatively high paying job with a flexible schedule. It sounded perfect as a means to an end of training kungfu.

    By this time, one of my older kungfu brothers from AMAS had landed in Atlanta, where he was studying Shaolin kungfu with a teacher who did his training in Taiwan. My friend and I jumped at the chance to train with the Grandmaster when it was announced that he would be visiting Atlanta for a few days of intensive training. We drove from Michigan to Georgia for the event. My plan was to ask if I could train with the Grandmaster in Taipei after I moved back to Taiwan several months later. I nervously asked the Grandmaster in Mandarin if I could train with him and he approved. I was thrilled.

    Grandmaster Lin Jian-hong ran the Shaolin Kungfu Association R.O.C. from his school in Sanchong District, just West across the Damshui river from Taipei. Grandmaster Lin was also a doctor of traditional Chinese medicine. The English as a second language cram school I lined up a teaching job with prior to returning to Taiwan had tentatively placed me at one of their English schools in Sanchong. Everything was lining up perfectly.

    When I arrived back in Taipei from Michigan, myself and the rest of my ESL teacher cohort underwent intensive training for a week before leaving for our home schools where we would be teaching for the next year. I was so nervous that I could barely complete any of the training exercises that involved being in front of the white board and trying to entertain and capture our imaginary young students' attentions.

    To make matters worse, towards the end of the week, I discovered that I had effectively lost the school placement lottery, and that my home school would now be based in Tucheng, which was much further south in Taipei county, and nowhere near Grandmaster Lin's kungfu school. I was devastated and tried negotiating to no avail with other teachers and the ESL staff. No one wanted to be placed that far from the hustle and bustle of Taipei proper.

Shaolin Kungfu Association R.O.C in Sanchong.
    Nevertheless, I vowed to make it all work. Initially I would take the MRT (subway) into Taipei, then take a bus to a stop near Grandmaster Lin's school. It was around a 2 hour trip one-way. I trained 2 days per week.
    There were guidelines I had to follow. Monthly dues were necessary, as was the custom of occasionally gifting green tea to the Grandmaster. He enjoyed drinking tea, which seemed to be an informal ceremony we often participated in, sometimes before lessons and sometimes when a break was needed.

    Eventually I bought my first scooter and my 2 hour transit turned into an hour harrowing scooter ride through the polluted streets of Taipei county. Still worth it. Most mornings I would arrive around the same time as Grandmaster Lin. He would unlock the heavy steel gates of the school and dunk under the front door halfway open. It was my job to fully open the gates. These gates were not anything like some fantasy of a Shaolin temple gate. They were the standard heavy steel gates that protected most businesses in Taiwan, which roll up like a garage door. Someone once told me "everyone is looking for the temple, but they never find it" in regards to Westerners looking for martial arts training in Asia.

    After the gates were open, I would pickup trash from in front of the building and sweep the entire school, from front to back. I was already accustomed to a similar task which we did on a weekly basis at AMAS in Ann Arbor.

    Some days there was one other guy that would train with us. Most days it was just Grandmaster Lin and myself. On some occasions, there would be visiting students of the Grandmaster who had opened their own schools elsewhere in Taiwan, and even in the USA.


TO BE CONTINUED IN PART 2

Sunday, November 26, 2006

Southern Taiwan - Surf Spots in Taiwan 4





Kenting National Park, Southeast Coast.






Gangzi Sand Dunes

Southeast Coast





Hiking up to the top of the dunes- North of Kenting, Southeast Coast.





Gangzi from the highway.






Looking South towards Gangzi from the highway.







Jialeshui

Kenting National Park

Southeast Coast








Jialeshui is just to the right of the rivermouth at Gangkou.





Looking South on the beach at Jialeshui, Kenting.







Looking North on the beach at Jialeshui, Kenting.






The view from the highway- South of Gangkou and Jialeshui, Kenting.








Sail Rock

Kenting National Park

South Coast





Snorkling and swimming are great here.






During typhoons, waves break to the left of Sail Rock onto the reef.





Little Bay

a.k.a. Xiao Wan

Kenting National Park

South Coast






Snorkling, swimming, and sunbathing are the best options at Xiao Wan.





There's a rock on the left side- a good swim and a great diving platform.





There's a bar, showers, and bathrooms on the beach at Little Bay, Kenting.






Baishawan

Kenting National Park

South Coast





The middle at Baishawan.






Sunset at Baishawan, Kenting.






Crowded fall days at Baishawan, Kenting.








South Bay

a.k.a Nan Wan

Kenting National Park

South Coast





Wednesday, November 22, 2006

Northeast Coast - Surf Spots in Taiwan 3






Waiao Beach

Shuangshi "Double Lions"

Northeast Coast












Waiao is a small coastal town in Northeastern Taiwan with several hostels, family-run convenience stores, a seafood restaurant, and little else. Dramatically different than bustling Taipei, Waiao offers fresh air, beaches, hiking, and a laidback atmosphere that will recharge your body and soul after dealing with the stresses of living in Taipei.

There are two options to get to Waiao by train. The first, take the slow train ("dian che") East-bound out of Taipei towards Ilan or Hualien. After about two hours, get off at the train station at Waiao. Walk North until you see a large temple on your left. Two statues of golden lions guard the parking lot on the opposite side of the road, hence the name of the spot. The second option, take a fast train East-bound out of Taipei towards Ilan or Hualien and get off at Toucheng station. It takes about an hour and a half to get there. From Toucheng station, get a taxi, pass Wushigang after 10 minutes, pass a large temple on the left, and get off oposite the next temple at Waiao beach, less than 5 minutes from Wushigang.




Eric from New York at Waiao Beach, Northeast Coast.




Waiao's fine black sand gets scortching hot on a sunny summer day. There's usually a small amount of garbage, shells, and fishing equipment stranded along the beach. Watch out for fishing nets left in the water that make getting back to shore like paddling through an obstacle course. There are a few tables along the sea wall in front of the beach. Bathrooms can be found at the temple. There is a place that charges $20 NT for showers just next to the beach.

The shoreline at Waiao changes with the tides and the seasons. It can be shallow or deep along the edge of the water. There are large rocks on the left and right ends of the beach and the middle part is sandy without coral or rocks. However, there is one large rock in the middle on the right side of the beach that is usually submerged. It has a buoy attached to it and is directly in front of the blue tarp covered shelter that's on the sea wall. There can be strong currents and rips, especially during typhoons.





Turtle Mountain Island ("Guishandao") at Waiao Beach.



The wave condition at Waiao can vary anywhere between being completely flat on some summer days to double-overhead bombs in the winter that you won't ever forget. In general, summer is small or even flat unless a typhoon is bringing a giant swell from the Pacific. Winter is more consistant.

There are usually less people surfing at Waiao Beach than nearby Honeymoon Bay or Wushi Harbor. Sometimes there is a Taiwanese guy selling coffee, tea, and snacks in the parking lot across from the temple. The locals are friendly and helpful as long as you show them respect.



The rocks on the right side, looking South at Waiao beach.





There aren't many options for food here. There are two small shops that sell chips, snacks, drinks, beer, binlang, and cigarettes. There is one seafood restaurant South of the beach on the main coastal road. The best option is to go to Toucheng for Japanese food or dumplings.










There are several hostels and a few boardshops closer to Wushigang, just South of Waiao beach.










Wushigang

a.k.a. Wushi Harbor

Northeast Coast













The same two options to get to Waiao Beach by train apply to getting to Wushigang. If you get off at Waiao station, walk South, turn left through the temple gate on the opposite side of the road and walk until you see entrances to the beach on your left. Alternatively, take a taxi from Toucheng train station to Wushigang, turn right through the temple gate, and get out next to the entrances.




The harbor wall at Wushigang, Northeast Coast.


The sand at Wushigang is fine and black. The beach is quite large and is a long walk from the beach entrances to the water. Make sure you wear sandals on a hot sunny day or your feet will seriously burn. There's less garbage and fishing equipment here than other beaches as more people come to the beach here. There are bathrooms at the Shelter, a bar/ hostel next to the beach entrances. There are free showers outside next to the Shelter.

Ther shoreline at Wushigang is similar to that at Waiao Beach. There is no coral here. There can be strong currents and rips, especially during typhoons. Watch out for any fishing nets along the shoreline.



Fishing boats and Guishandao- early a.m. at Wushi Harbor.




Waves can break right on the harbor wall on certain days. It can get really crowded with surfers trying to shoot around the wall on a good day. Careful if you surf next to the wall- watch out for the huge tack shaped boulders. There are several good breaks along the beach here. Most people stay on the right side, but good waves can be found anywhere to the left.

The people at Wushigang are friendly. Boards can be rented on the beach. It gets really crowded during the summer and on weekends. Many people stay in the nearby hostels to get up at 5 a.m. and get the first waves of the day.





Turtle Mountain Island ("Guishandao") at Wushigang.




The Shelter has some western food for decent prices. Sometimes they have $50 NT cans of Becks beer. The shop next to the Shelter has rice and noodles for cheap. There are several seafood restaurants inside the harbor in the building on the left. They're on the second floor, but a bit pricey. By far the best option for food is the Japanese restaurant in Toucheng. Turn right in front of the train station in Toucheng, and then left a few hundred meters later. The food is cheap and excellent including free sweetened black tea and miso soup. Another option is the dumpling restaurant in front of the train station in Toucheng. There are several other retaurants in Toucheng as well as a 7-11 and a Family Mart.

There are a few boardshops along the coastal road near Wushigang. The one across from the temple gate has a nice selection of wetsuits, rash guards, board shorts, hats, and anything else you might need. Further North on the left is a shop that fixes dings for cheap.

There are several hostels near Wushigang. The closest one to the beach is the Shelter. Prices vary at the different hostels. Camping is excellent anywhere on the beach. Better yet, find a beach house to rent and you'll have it made.

Monday, November 06, 2006

Taiwan Maps




Northern Taiwan



























Southern Taiwan




Taiwan Surfing Pictures


Jialeshui - 10/9/06






Jialeshui - 10/9/06









Jialeshui - 10/9/06



Jialeshui - 10/9/06








Waiao Beach.







Early a.m. Waiao Beach.






Waiao Beach.





Dropping in at The Temple at Waiao Beach, Northeast Coast.





Richie from England at The Temple at Waiao Beach, Northeast Coast.






Trevor from South Africa at Jialeshui, Kenting, Southeast Coast.






Standing up at Jialeshui later the same day.





Jialeshui, Kenting, Southeast Coast.




Wednesday, October 04, 2006

North and Northeast - Surf Spots in Taiwan 2



Fulong Beach

Northeast Coast














Take any train that travels East-bound out of Taipei. It is an hour to an hour and a half ride depending on whether you get a fast train or not. Exit Fulong train station, walk straight to the stop-light at the intersection. Continue straight ahead for a few minutes to the public beach that’s on the South side of the Fulong beaches. Alternatively, take a left at the intersection with the stop-light, pass the 7-11 and continue right into the parking lot. This is the private beach at Fulong where you have to pay to get in, swimming is restricted, and it closes early. Only come here if you have to. Otherwise, continue past the parking lot on the road that the 7-11 is on. A 10 minute walk brings you to Longmen campground. Walk all the way through, over the suspension bridge, and for another 10 minutes along a stone path. Turn right, up a short stone path. The vegetation ends, opening up to the South side of the North section of Fulong beach, which is much larger than the public and private beaches put together. No fees or lifeguards here.




"The Spot" on the North section looking south.







The sand at Fulong is fine and golden. There’s usually some garbage, sticks, wood, shells, and other random beach artifacts. All areas along the beach coastline have pavillions. There are bathrooms at the train station, the private beach, and Longmen campground. There’s a small river that divides the public beach, the private beach, and the North section of Fulong beach. The North section has a few trails that follow the entire coastline and beach.

The shoreline at Fulong is very shallow- a few hundred feet walk out and the water is chest height. There is no coral here. There can be strong currents and rips, especially during typhoons.







The North section of Fulong Beach







Waves break next to the harbor wall that’s on the right side of the public beach. The next wave to the left breaks where the rivermouth is. The rest of the private beach and the North end have several nice sections of ridable waves. On typhoon days, the waves break further out, up to hundreds of meters off shore. The waves at Fulong tend to be smaller than other nearby places, like Dahsi or Jinshan.

The people at Fulong are friendly, but make sure you don’t pay for something you don’t have to.The public beach can get crowded during the summer. The private beach gets crowded with tourists that don’t even get in the water- they just take pictures. The North section of Fulong beach is uncrowded and rustic.

Fulong lunch boxes are famous and cheap at $50 NT. There are a few Chinese and seafood restaurants in Fulong. There’s one 7-11. There’s no grocery, but some local vegetables and fruit. There is a coffee shop/ hostel that serves good lasange and a few other dishes. It is located on the right after you exit the train station.

There is one boardshop, turn left at the intersection with the stop-light. It’s on the left side, across from the 7-11. Boards can be rented on the beach during the summer months.

There are a few hostels in Fulong. There may be single rooms to rent. Camping is excellent in Longmen campground (for a small fee) or free anywhere along the North section of Fulong beach. Camping is rustic anywhere along the North section. The nearest bathrooms and showers are located in Longmen campground.





Baishawan

North Coast




Trails next to the rustic section.






Drive a scooter or car North on Highway #2 out of Taipei, passing Shilin, Beitou, and Damshui. Continue North on #2 past Sanzhi. 4 km after Sanzhi, turn left into the Baishawan beach area. The popular beach is immediately on the right. The uncrowded, rustic beach is at the North end of the drive. Parking is available all along this drive. If you have no wheels, take the MRT to Damshui and then a bus to Baishawan. There is a bus that goes to Jinshan that passes by Baishawan.

Baishawan means “White Sand Bay” in Chinese. The sand is only a little corse, mostly fine. There is usually a small amount of garbage and things on the beach. The headlands next to the beach provide cover and a convenient outdoor bathroom. North of the bay is a trail with volcanic rocks that jut out into the ocean. There is cover and changing spots within the rocks. Across from the popular section of Baishawan there are bathrooms and showers.

The bay is seperated by a large volcanic rock outcropping in the middle of the two sections. The shoreline is shallow and there isn’t any coral or rocks other than the outcropping. Currents and rips are strong here, especially during typhoons. People drown here every year because the get pulled out and aren’t strong swimmers. There are no lifeguards on the rustic section of the beach.





The coral outcropping at Baishawan.






Waves break to the left and right of the coral outcropping. Waves can also break to the left and right of these waves, on the popular beach and on the cove that’s to the left of the rustic beach. Large swells can create a choppy mess at Baishawan. Baishawan is better for camping, swimming, and hiking. The waves are usually better at nearby Jinshan.

Tourists at Baishawan stay at the popular beach that is closer to the entrance and the restrooms. The rustic beach has much less of the crowd. Local people are friendly and helpful.






Visit the trails next to the rustic beach.





Next to the left-turn entrance at Baishawan are a few seafood restaurants. One of them has cold shark with soy sauce and wasabi for cheap. Drinks can be bought in front of the stores and restaurants. There is a small store on the North side of the rustic beach with drinks. Sometimes there are vendors selling grilled sausage and other food. Along the road to Baishawan, near Sanzhi on the #2 Highway, there are red-heart guavas for sale.

There aren’t any boardshops at Baishawan. There are a few small stores with bathing suits, goggles, inflatable toys, and not much else.

There may be rooms for rent overnight at Baishawan. There isn’t a hotel. Camping is best on the rustic beach.






Jinshan New Beach

North Coast













From Taipei, drive North on Zhongshan North Road (#9) through Shilin. Follow Highway #2•“ (pronounced “jia.”) Turn right on #2 §A (pronounced “yi.”) Then, the #2§A changes back into the #2•“. Follow the signs through Yangming Mountain National Park all the way to Jinshan. At the first large intersection at Jinshan, turn left and follow the #2 North of Jinshan. Pass the gas station on the right. A few minutes later, turn right into the parking lot at Jinshan New Beach. Alternatively, take a bus from Taipei to Jinshan, or a train to Jeelong and a bus to Jinshan. Walk North along the coast from the city.

The sand at Jinshan is fine and golden. There are cement boulders at the North and South ends of the beach. There are bathrooms and showers next to the parking lot. The far walk to the South end passes a large cement boat launch and continues on to another section of uncrowded beach.

The shoreline at Jinshan New Beach is steeper than at Fulong and Baishawan. There can be a nice shorebreak in the middle of the first section of the beach. Watch out for the rusted metal embedded into the ocean floor next to the boat launch. There is coral in the middle of the first section of the beach. Be aware of currents that run parallel to the beach.





Waves break at Jinshan New Beach on the left into the bay, in the middle over the coral, and on the right next to the boat launch wall. Jinshan waves are usually better than Baishawan and Fulong. The waves are mushy and there can be a shorebreak in front of the coral in the middle of the first section.

Jinshan is uncrowded during the winter and crowded during the summer. Sometimes there are so many people in the water on surfboards that it’s better to go somewhere with less people. There are a lot of surfers and young people. The locals are friendly.

There are food vendors in the summer that sell sausages and cold drinks. There is also a small restaurant with a few options. The closest 7-11 is back in Jinshan at the large intersection on #2. There is a grocery store in downtown Jinshan, as well as Japanese food, Chinese food, pizza, and fried chicken. There are fruit and vegetables for sale along the road in Yangming Mountain National Park and Jinshan.

There are a few boardshops at the beach in Jinshan. Johnny Rose is the most famous one. Boards can be rented on the beach and you can leave your board for a fee at the shops. The boardshops are also hostels with rooms for $??? A night. There aren’t any hotels, but there are rooms for rent and other hostels in Jinshan. Camping is excellent anywhere on the beach.